Like this I can make really solid model with out gaps of holes between the extrusion lines. For maximum strength, it doesnt help go much over 60, typical values for light-duty parts are 20 and 30. What helped was to tweak the parameter “Extrusion multiplier” to 1.10 (formally 0.8). Check your settings: your shell thickness should be something reasonable (like 0.8mm / 2 shells) and your infill should also be below 100 if you dont want to print it solid.
I fiddled with a lot of parameters, including extrusion width, gap fill or infill extrusion width. One thing with Simplify 3D is that you have a lot of parameters, which also interact from time to time and sometimes its unclear what change bring the solution. Holding it against the light you could also see that there were gaps in between the extrusion lines. As far as infill goes, if you set it to 100 in Cura, it will change the bottom layers to 999999 and print in whatever pattern you have set for the bottom layer (zigzag, lines. Annealing the model after printing will greatly increase its strength. Especially since were going to be twisting and pulling on this thing, we dont want any chance of a layer tearing. I believe rectilinear is the best pattern for 100 infill.
It was not watertight, you could blow “through” the wall. We can get away with less infill for casting things like concrete but for resin, keep it at 100. I had the issue, that when printing a model with solid infill (100%) and 0.1mm layer height on an Makerbot Replicator 2 the base would show gaps in between the extrusion lines.Īs the model should be water tight I made a simply test – blowing through the model. If you digging deeper into 3D-Printing you can take your pre-processing to the next level.
SIMPLIFY 3D 100% INFILL SOLID SOFTWARE
Its a commercial software but its worth every 149$ that it costs.
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